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Food Review

Jessie Burche

Issue date: 1/8/07 Section: Culture
  • Page 1 of 1
Waldo Pizza

7433 Broadway Road

"Wouldn't you like to get away?/Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name."

These memorable words from the "Cheers" theme song intone a wonderful picture of a warmly lit bar with comforting food and good friends. Waldo Pizza, 75th St. and Wornall Road, takes on this same role as a neighborhood hangout.

Outside, the pizzeria is lit up by neon signs for beer and pizza. Inside, olfactory nerves light up as the delicious, homely smell of parmesan hits them.

The staff at Waldo Pizza is quick to make you comfortable in the restaurant. Immediately after being seated, the waitress explained the different crusts and took drink orders.

There are three different crusts at Waldo Pizza. There is a St. Louis-style thin crust. This pizza comes with cheddar, provolone, Swiss and mozzarella cheeses. It also has a garlic butter on it with just a little sauce.

The traditional crust is yeast-risen with provolone and mozzarella cheeses.

The last crust is a honey whole-wheat crust described as "buttery and chewy" with the Waldo pizza sauce and mozzarella on it.

We ordered garlic cheesy bread, $2.95, to start with. While we were waiting, I counted up all the items you can put on your pizzas.

There are 10 different cheeses on the menu. Spam is just one of the 19 meats you can put on the pie. A total of 26 different vegetables, including pine nuts and sauerkraut, are on the menu.

After I finished counting, the garlic cheesy bread came. It was blissfully covered in copious amounts of cheese with a lovely undercoat of garlic butter. There was also much more on the plate than I thought $2.95 would get us. We couldn't even eat half of the appetizer.

We ordered the St. Louis-style crust. For our toppings my boyfriend and I decided to get a little weird and get Scimeca's Italian sausage, zucchini and cream cheese. Our 14-inch pizza cost $15.20.

While waiting for the pizza I noticed a fun detail in the restaurant - pizza tins for lampshades. Three different-sized tins in descending order from largest to smallest rest on top of the lights. It makes the restaurant seem a little funkier. There is also very surreal art that surrounds the diners.

Our strange combination turned out to be a good idea. The cream cheese was put on the pizza in dollops and added a nice tang to every bite. The zucchini was still a little crunchy, which was a surprise because I expected it to be mushy and slightly nasty. The sausage was very tasty and not too spicy.

The only disappointment with our pizza was the crust was incredibly crunchy. But the flavors of the cheese and toppings more than made up for this.

I will definitely return to Waldo Pizza instead of going to Pizza Hut. Our total bill came to $18.15, which was worth it because we took enough food home for at least two more meals.

jburche@unews.com
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