Spring Break
Food Review: El Pueblito
Ashley Lindemann
Issue date: 10/3/05 Section: Culture
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810 Southwest Blvd.
I like to consider myself a quasi-connoisseur of every sort of late-night restaurant. Perkins, Denny's, IHOP - I love them all, having spent many nights up and at 'em, while trying to get this essay finished or that book read. They have frequently been the only thing standing between me and starvation. Unfortunately, the breakfast restaurant theme can get worn out pretty quickly. Believe me, it is actually possible to get tired of eating pancakes.
With this in mind, a friend recommended El Pueblito. She noted that it is open very late on the weekends (4 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights) and later than most other places during the rest of the week. I decided to give it a try after one of my night classes got out, and my stomach was angrily crying out for some sustenance.
As I walked through the front doors around 10 p.m., the restaurant was empty of patrons but had obviously seen a busy day. A few employees were out front stacking tables and chairs. While my friend and I settled into a booth near the jukebox at the front and began scrutinizing the menu, our fatigued server explained that they'd had a radio station out that afternoon for a promotional special which had drawn a hefty crowd.
The menu offerings resembled the same thing you will find at any given Mexican restaurant in the metro area, with the typical tacos, enchiladas, tamales and burritos up for grabs.
I ordered the queso dip ($2.50) to start and then decided to give the salsas a try.
Hesitating over whether to try the smooth, dark red salsa or the chunky, lighter salsa first, I went for the chunky hoping to be surprised with something hot. My inclination was correct, and it was the excellent sort of spicy that catches you a moment after you've finished chewing and sends you straight for your glass of water to keep your eyes from watering.
The smoother second salsa was very mild with a strong tomato flavor.
The white-cheese queso dip was steamy hot, a prerequisite for cheese dip which many restaurants seem to not understand.
Entrée menu choices and a la carte items are both available, and most selections are well below $10. I chose a combo platter ($5.99) with two cheese enchiladas, refried beans and rice to serve my vegetarian palate, while my friend ordered the chicken flautas ($6.99) which came with the same sides.
The large platters were quickly served and we dug in with gusto. While I've never been to Mexico, I would guess our food was what authentic Mexican food must look like.
The cheese enchiladas, like the queso dip, were made with a white cheese that isn't greasy when it melts, and the enchiladas seemed more substantial than what I've found in other restaurants.
My friend's flautas were smothered in sour cream and crumbled white cheese, and she verified that the chicken inside was tender and tasty.
The one thing lacking from our experience was a little more attention from our server, who failed to refill our water more than once during the hour-long duration of our stay. This is a bit of a problem in a place serving spicy food, but our apologetic server noted she'd worked 14 hours that day. This was also apparently the reason she was pattering around the concrete floor barefoot, as she'd come to work wearing high heels earlier.
Barefoot server aside, the restaurant appeared to be extremely clean and well-kept.
Unlike most Mexican restaurants, El Pueblito doesn't serve alcohol, which seems to give it a quieter atmosphere than other area eateries.
With large servings, late-night hours and student-friendly prices, consider giving El Pueblito a try next time you're up late and want to avoid the fast food and 24-hour restaurant circuit.
El Pueblito is open Monday-Thursday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 9 a.m. to 4 a.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to midnight.
alindemann@unews.com
